Part One: Itinerary

This is the plan I worked out for our 9 day trip to Goa and Kerala. It was the first trip I undertook in Asia which involved an overnight stay, and I was still in my European habbit of planning everything to minute detail. Looking back at this, I can't believe how much research I did for the trip and how much time I must have spent on the whole planning operation. I am including it here mostly for entertainment value, so that you can see how much I have changed after an extended period of time in India. To start with, I was a neurotic person with German-style need for following rules, almost military approach to planning, slightly scared of mishaps and improvisation. I don't need to tell you that most of the itinerary was scrapped after the first day, when I was faced with reality and forced to adjust my attitude and plans to local conditions. Several months later, this turned into a habbit and I realized that Asia requires more of a Latino laid-back approach, rather than "German military commander" neurosis. The very last trip I made in India was a long-weekend in Udaipur. Myself and Alessandro took a day off on Friday, and as we were sitting in our living room waiting for the taxi to take us to the train station, I asked him: "Where is it we are going again?" Despite the fact that it was me who booked the tickets, I couldn't even remember the name of the destination! It didn't matter, after all, I already knew that things would work out along the way ...

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Goa & Kerala 9-day itinerary:

Day 1:            Saturday        29 September 2007

Gurgaon ==> Goa: Gurgaon ==> Panaji (capital of Goa state; north Goa)                 
Leave Gurgaon: by cab at approx. 9 am to allow for cab delay etc., approx. Rs. 200 each
Leave Delhi Airport: 12:45 (check-in at 10:45) with Air Deccan
Arrive at Goa: 16:25 (Dabolim Airport, 29km south of Panaji, near Vasco da Gama)
Flight Rs. 3,699
Accommodation: in Panaji, budget accommodation approx. Rs. 350 for a double room, mid-range approx. Rs. 750-1500 for a double room
Activities: Find accommodation, chill out, go out for food …

Day 2: Sunday            30 September 2007

Goa: Panaji
Accommodation: in Panaji, budget accommodation approx. Rs. 350 for a double room, mid-range approx. Rs. 750-1500 for a double room
Activities: sightseeing in Panaji, possibly also Old Goa
Things to see in Panaji: old Portuguese quarter, Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception (1541), Goa State Museum (9.30am - 5.30pm Mon - Fri), Secretariat Building (16th century colonial building) etc. 
Old Goa: former portuguese capital; Se Cathedral, Convent & Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Basilica of Bom Jesus, Church of St. Cajetan, Church of St. Augustine (ruins), Church & Convent of St. Monica + other historical sights.
Autorikshas: short trips around Panaji Rs. 50; one-way trip to Old Goa Rs. 150, return trip to Old Goa Rs. 250
Taxis: full day's sightseeing Rs. 800 - 1000
Bicycle Hire: Rs. 40/day
Buses: leave from Kadamba bus stand; bus to Old Goa 25 mins & Rs. 5; bus to Margao 1 hr & Rs. 16 - change in Margao for southern beaches
Train: nearest train station is Karmali, 12 km to the east (near Old Goa); reservation office at Kadamba bus stand (8am - 8pm, Mon - Sat)

Day 3:            Monday          1 October 2007

Goa: Panaji ==> Palolem Beach (south Goa)
Accommodation: in Palolem beach, budget accommodation - beach huts approx. Rs. 150-300, mid-range approx. Rs. 600 for a double room
Transport: leave Panaji early morning to Palolem Beach - take a bus from Panaji Kadamba bus station to Margao (aka Madgaon); change at Margao Kadamba bus stand to Palolem beach (8 buses per day, 1 hr & Rs. 12)
Activities: find accommodation, beach time!
Palolem Beach: the state's most idyllic beach
Boat Tours: to see dolphin or visit tiny Butterfly Beach, 1 hr trip costs Rs. 150
Train: nearest train station is Canacona, another option is Madgaon (aka Margao)
 

Day 4:            Tuesday          2 October 2007 (Public Holiday, Gandhi's Birthday)

Goa: Palolem Beach
Activities: same as above - beach time!
Massage: 1 hr Ayurvedic massage in Goa - Rs. 650 

Day 5:            Wednesday    3 October 2007 (Lucie's Birthday)

Goa ==> Kerala: Palolem Beach ==> night train to Alleppey 
Activities: Spend the day at Palolem beach. Take a night train to Alleppey in Kerala.
Depart Palolem Beach: take a taxi / autoriksha / bus to Canacona train station

Day 6:            Thursday        4 October 2007

Kerala: Alleppey
Arrive in Alleppey:
Activities: chill out, explore the place, find out about backwater tours
Accommodation: budget Rs. 200 – 800 for a double room, mid-range Rs. 400 – 1000 for a double room

Day 7: Friday             5 October 2007

Kerala: Alleppey 
Backwater boat trips: there are different short or long (overnight) trips; we can take one around midday (10 – 12) and finish the next morning. Therefore no accommodation required for this night. Costs: Rs. 1,000 per head for a boat long trip.

Day 8:            Saturday        6 October 2007

Kerala: Alleppey ==> Kochi (aka Cochin)
Activities: take a train or bus from Alleppey to Kochi, sightseeing in Kochi, see a Kathakali performance in the evening
Information about Kochi: Kochi consists of mainland Ernakulam, the islands of Willingdon, Bolgatty and Gundu in the harbour, Fort Cochin and Mattancherry on the southern peninsula; and Vupeen Island north of Fort Cochin. The main train and bus stations are in Ernakulam. Ferries are the main means of transport between the different parts of Kochi (tickets around Rs. 5). 
Train: Ernakulam has two train stations, Ernakulam Town and Ernakulam Junction. Reservations for both stations have to be made at Ernakulam Junction reservations office (8am-8pm, Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)
Things to see in Kochi: Chinese fishing nets, St Francis Church (1503), Santa Cruz Basilica, Indo-Portuguese Museum (9am-1pm & 2 – 6pm, Tue – Sun, Rs. 25), Mattancherry Palace, Pardesi Synagogue & Jew Town
Kathakali Performance: traditional dance; See India Foundation, Art Kerala, Kerala Kathakali Centre. Performances usually start at 5pm or 6pm.
Accommodation: budget Rs. 300 – 700 for a double room, mid-range Rs. 600 – 1500
Autorikshas: for trips in Ernakulam approx. Rs. 25

Day 9: Sunday            7 October 2007

Kerala ==> Gurgaon: Kochi (aka Cochin) ==> Gurgaon
Leave Kochi (aka Cochin): 18:35 (check-in 16:35, leave Kochi around 15:30) with SpiceJet, Kochi International Airport is at Nedumbassery, 30km northeast of Ernakulam. Taxis from Ernakulam cost around Rs. 250 and from Fort Cochin around Rs. 450
Arrive at Delhi: 22:40, flight from Kochi to Delhi Rs. 4,174 each
Arrive at Gurgaon: by cab around midnight approx. Rs. 200 each

Total Budget: About Rs. 16,000, including flights, all transport, accommodation, food, boat trips etc. This is a generous estimate, you might spend less (or more, if you tend to buy a lot of crap along the way – not mentioning any names, but Ingrid may want to double the budget hahaha.)